Miramar as Metaphor

When the destruction of the coastline from Campal to Carazalem continues to happen, GCZMA is asleep.

http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/goa/Miramar-as-Metaphor/articleshow/55262363.cms?

The formerly pristine sand stretch perfectly encapsulates the wider destruction of Goa

No place in Goa better encapsulates the state’s despoiled, criminally squandered realities than the formerly pristine arc of sands stretching from Campal to Caranzalem. An iconic location and cultural lodestone, this is where tens of thousands gather to hear the legislative election results. Miramar is a magnet for locals and tourists alike. It is Panaji’s most vital lung for fresh air and cool ocean breezes, and also ancient gateway to the fabled port upriver. Here the Arabian Seameets the Mandovi/Mhadei, the taproot of Goan identity.

But walk the timeless vista any evening towards sunset, and only degradation comes to mind. Garbage is strewn everywhere and the river water distinctly stinks of sewage. Tourist boats blaring Bollywood music churn right onto the sands, disgorging crowds of the lowest-value tourists, who are taking advantage of ultra-cheap quick spins around the bay. There’s zero infrastructure, so lines of (inevitably Indian) men head straight to the vegetation to urinate. Vendors now sell snacks and bottled water right near the waterline, all the debris is dumped directly underfoot. Touts lead throngs to trample over the last precious patches of green.

Just above the sands, is another glaring symbol of the gross fraudulence perpetrated in plain sight in Goa today. The perfectly adequate (very recently re-tarred), tree-lined and scenic road connecting Gaspar Dias to Dona Paula was egregiously dug up almost three years ago, ostensibly to concretize and complete within a few months. But deadline after deadline passed, and the alleged improvement is still nowhere near complete. Now it’s clear nothing promised (international-standard bike-lanes, a generation of durability) will ever be delivered. Meanwhile, the project cost has soared to Rs100 crores.

Cross further to fill your eyes with more unavoidable reminders of Goa gone awry. There is rampant real estate construction, which has taken over the sea-facing precincts of Taleigao and Caranzalem. Here are unbroken ranks of apartment complexes built right on top of fields, wetlands, inlets and drainage channels. Where rainwater once streamed directly to the ocean, now it sits stagnant. Sewage constantly overflows into the drinking supply, because all the new construction is slapdash and unregulated and there are no adequate treatment plans. All the wells that served these areas are irredeemably contaminated. Malaria and other mosquito-borne diseases are increasingly common.

Back to the waterline, where it takes only a few minutes to note much else has gone terribly wrong. Vast swathes of sand are blackened with discharge from ships far at sea, and also from the rapidly proliferating rash of dirt-cheap Miramar tour boats. Piles of jellyfish are washed ashore, an inescapable indication of oxygen depletion in the ocean, itself a direct result of sewage dumping. The National Institute of Oceanography has repeatedly warned all that coastal waters of the state are unsafe because of municipal dumping of wastes. But there are individual culprits too: a pipe leading out from the Marriott has stained the sand with effluent, right down to the sea.
There are many parts to the Miramar problem. But all lead to the inexorable conclusion underlying every other major predicament that besets Goa. It is comprehensive failure of governance, compounded by free-for-all lawlessness. There is impunity for everyone, from the architects of “infrastructure improvement” scams to the “make money while the sun shines” irresponsible real estate developers to the cheap-tour boat operators who blast music past every legal level, and hand over plastic bottles to their clients who then throw them straight into the water. There are no penalties for destroying vegetation, or using the bushes as a giant open-air toilet, or for littering anywhere and everywhere.

 In any other major tourism destination in the world, everyone up to the chief minister would lose their jobs for what has happened to Miramar. But in Goa there are no consequences. Captain of Ports gave permission for cheap-tour boats to ply right off the beach without any concern for adequate infrastructure, toilets, garbage, preservation of the last patches of green. The tourism department actively encourages the least-value tourists to visit Miramar, with zero planning or facilities that could alleviate their disproportionately high impact. The magnates whose real estate and hospitality facilities exist parasitically off Miramar’s natural resources actively destroy, instead of enhance or improve.
 Just like the canary in a coal mine, the choking demise of the once-magnificent Miramar beach indicates a doleful reckoning facing the entirety of Goa. Person for person, Panaji is one of the richest and best educated cities in the entire subcontinent. It is home to a stream of the highest profile national cultural events, which calendar kicks off with this month’s International Film Festival of India. With that profile, with all its advantages, if this city cannot protect its environment’s crown jewel from shameful ruination, there is no hope for any other place in the state.
The writer is a photographer and widely published columnist
Posted in Beaches of Goa | Leave a comment

Verna Village

Verna – a village of rich culture, tradition and history, 19.5 kms. from  Panjim city, in salcete taluka, south Goa, is well known for its natural scenic beauty. Besides the ‘Titan’ industrial area we explore much much more of the village.

We start with the historic place of the village – the ‘Old Mardol’ temple and the historic place were the first Holy mass was held in salcete taluka in south Goa. Our guide explains you in detail the age old history.

One of the experiences we give to you in this village is an entry in a natural, animal made cave. We make all the necessary arrangement for you’ll to have this unique experience. It’s not men made or artificially made as you find in other tourist destinations. A nature experience you’ll have.

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After somewhat tiring walk through the cave, and the vegetable fruit garden tour, we then explore the natural scenic beauty of this village. The Patna  zor (Patna Spring) which have the flow of water from under the ground and water gushing down through trees, plants and herbs. It is interesting to listen to our guide explaining to you the medicinal purpose of this natural water for the hair and the eyes. Its not artificially made but the flow is 24/7 and 365 days, in which the flow is heavy during the rains. A perfect place for natural water crabs. You can refresh yourself in this natural water flow and here you are served a local Goan mid-day nourishing snack the Pez with chepnnechem tor. It is served in the old traditional way in a Matul (earthen vessel) and the place is not restaurant or hotel but the Patna zor. Just being one with the nature.

A little drive down the south of the village we visit our friend Francis Xavier Fernandes, a toddy tapper, who explains and demonstrate us the process of toddy tapping work. Toddy tapping is a rich old traditional profession of Goa. And offers you fresh toddy just brought down from the coconut tree. He also explains us the process how natural vinegar is made of the toddy and maddamchi fenni (a local drink) is made. A man who have 38 years of experience in this field and who climbs 30 coconut trees, three time a day i.e. early morning, afternoon and late in the evening explains you all this.
Other age old professions of the village are also demonstrated in this exposure. Bamboo pantules, supam, kondde are few to mention.
Verna village which is well known for its highway sale of local agricultural products are explained and visited. Kidney beans, tied onions, vinegar, toddy and seasonal fruits like caju/bibe, ponnos, chunnam, charam, kandam are shown and given for taste. Our guide gives detailed explanation of these local products.

Well, for lunch we have the local Goan food served in local old traditional Goan way. The menu – local grown boiled rice, curry with dried prawns, kismur (dried prawn salad) salt fish salad, king fish moll, crabs xekxek, local made pickle, kidney beans xakuti etc. And the food is served near a spring – the uddear zor. Again the same description… 24/7and  365 days flow… natural water…..etc…. but a new experience for lunch.

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A visit to an ancestral Portuguese architecture built house and a visit to the 450 years old village church, the furniture in the house and the architecture of both is also a treat of this traditional village.

Finally in the evening we take you to the south side of the village where our brothers and sisters entertain you with traditional Goan songs and  fugddi dance of kundbis – the aborigines of Goa, to the rhythmic  beating of the gumot and mandonn. The same is done on the night of the wedding reception traditionally where they dance and sing and play all night long. Goan tradition , culture is highlighted. They sing, they dance, they play passionately they whistle.  Their dresses, the flowers on the dancing women  head, the jewellery, the mans playing singing, their dress and the dancing steps of the women is a treat to watch. As they sing and entertain  – black tea with the flowers of lemon grass and ginger is served with  filoz – a local evening snack prepared in traditional way on fire wood, in a banana leaf.

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Contact: Fr Freddy +919822156955

Posted in 100 Goan Experiences, Alternative Tourism | Leave a comment

Agassaim Village

Agassaim the village in tiswaddi taluka in Goa is very well known for pork sausages, brinjals/egg tree vegetable and sweet potatoes. It is fifteen kms from the city of Panjim. Agassaim is much more as we explore it for you’ll.

Our guides welcome you with tradition way with some goan music. A brief history is told by our guide of the cave/tunnel existing just down the St. Lawrence church wherein the other end of the tunnel is believed to be in the neighboring Siridao village were also a cave /tunnel exists.

A little walk down we visit our friend Antonio Fernandes, a toddy tapper who explains and demonstrate us the process of toddy tapping work. And offers you fresh toddy just brought down from the coconut tree.

Then its tea time at the bolcaõ – a balcony of old goan Portuguese architecture house of Mr. Vales were in the traditional treat of ‘allebele’ (pen cake) is explained cooked and is served. You can also try to make one.

After this you are taken to the place for which Agassaim is known for – the making of pork sausages. It is interesting to hear our guide who is from the same village explaining the whole processes of sausage making – from the getting a pig, masala, feeling. Tying, drying, smoking and packing. The guide also explains – how and why Goa is known for pork sausage all through the world.

A short visit to the village lake is done where you can watch some migrant birds coming. Then we have the fugddi/dhallo  – a traditional dance to entertain you’ll. It’s nice to see our women dressed in their traditional share called kapodd with flowers on their heads and wearing traditional jewelry, with the tickling sound of the pizonnam as they dance and sing. The same fugddi/dhallo dance is done for the village annual temple feast. It’s nice to see the old women dance and sing for such a long time. You’ll can also take part in the dancing.

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For lunch we serve traditional Goan food. Rice which is locally cultivated, curry, fish with stuffed reciad masala, Pork sausages, brinjal/egg vegetable which is locally grown and salt fish salad is served. All food is served traditionally in earthen vessels. As desert tradition onn is served – the age old delicacy of Goa. The lunch place is a open space under the shadow of coconut tree. Our guide entertains you with goan music and songs strumming the guitar and gumot.

After the traditional food we walk down the zuari river for the scenic view under the zuari  bridge which links North Goa to South Goa. Our guide explains the traditional fishing method called arry fishing.

We go down further to the north side of the village where our guide tells the history of Goas first port as we view the remains of the port. Kube – the shell fish removing art is also explained. A visit to spiritual center of Pilar Fathers – the meditation center is made and explained.

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Finally in the evening we take you to the south side of the village where our brothers enertain you with their Goan songs and beating of the gumot and mandonn. The same is done on the night of the wedding reception traditionally. Goan tradition , culture is highlighted. They sing, they play passonaely they whistle. As they sing and entertain  – black tea with the flovers of lemon grass and ginger is served with  foleavoili bakri – local evening snack prepared in traditional way on fire wood, in a babana leaf.

Contact: Fr Freddy +919822156955

Posted in 100 Goan Experiences, Alternative Tourism | Leave a comment

First foray of cruise tourists sows bigger hopes

I hope Parulekar knows the damage cruise ships do to our marine ecology and how they pollute the seas

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GCZMA okays shack policy

Its only the language of dharnas and hunger strikes that this government understands

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Posted in Shack Owners Welfare Society - SOWS Goa | Leave a comment

Shack owners go in indefinite strike

How long will the people tolerate this injustice to the lively hoods of locals?

shack

Posted in Shack Owners Welfare Society - SOWS Goa | Leave a comment