Centre for Responsible Tourism, Goa

CRT Report of Tiracol
by Pantaleao Fernandes

Tiracol is a tiny fishing village situated at the northern-most tip of Goa, in the Pernem Taluka. This tiny village offers all the characteristics of Goa – a river, beach, fields, springs, fort, caves, church, chapel, roadside cross, and of course plenty of high grade feni.

To enter the village, one has to cross the Tiracol River separating Goa from Maharashtra via ferry boat from Querim, another quaint village of Goa. Once you cross over, you will be greeted by the locals with tender coconuts.
Then we head to the Tiracol fort and walk into the annals of history. The guide will explain the significance of the fort and the sacrifice of the freedom fighter, whose monument lies outside the fort. The church of St. Anthony that lies within the fort walls looks like a miniature of the grandiose churches that dot Goa. We walk on the ramparts of the fort and take in the mind blowing view of the Arabian Sea as it meets the Triacol River.

VIEW FROM THE FORT

CHURCH OF ST. ANTHONY

HIDDEN CAVES AND COVES
Yes, Tiracol is well known for its solitude, isolation and the most pristine beach in goa. However, the locals will now steer you via some hidden pathways to some hidden caves and coves. And if you have the spirit, grab a fishing rod from them and try to lure some rock fish. These favourite spots are well guarded secrets and known only to the locals.
We return to the village maand, an ancient sacred are for community rituals. This is where the chapel now stands. Just outside is a very typical Goan house with a long verandah. Seated here, the locals, who are very adept at playing the gumot, (an earthen percussion instrument) that provides the beat to some intoxicating local folksongs will play and sing their folksong to their heart’s content. These songs are not the typical ones sung in other parts of Goa but have a unique flavour. They may put up their festival attire consisting of green crowns and colourful cloaks and even have a rain dance. You see, these songs originate from the San Joao celebrations of this village. And it is our privilege to witness them round the year.

This encounter with the local culture, the long walk, the rejuvenating sea air and the stomach soon starts growling. The locals have now prepared a meal out of their festive menu: of locally caught fish, milgor, and hot puries which are a rave among the locals.
Sample their pure local brew if you are a feni connoisseur.
Rest a while while a local woman demonstrates the art of matting a coconut palm leaf. Try your hand at the art and weave the useful mats from discarded palm leafs in your own neighbourhood!

If yor are game, jump into the little canoe by the cove near ‘padri ghor’ and let the boat man row you around. You will spot the ‘mama ani bacho’ two rocks far in the sea with a legend of their own…
It is time to say good bye with a steaming cup of coffee and some cashew nuts roasted on fire right in front of your eyes. Mind you, the flavour of nuts roasted on fire and those in factories is totally different. So don’t miss this rare treat!

As we cross the ferry to head back home, the fort appears to say good bye!

Contact: Fr Freddy +919822156955

CRT Report of Kuskem by Pantaleao Fernandes

Kuskem is a tribal village, mostly lost to the world, tucked at the foothills of the mighty Sayadhris Mountains. From the capital city, one has to travel 93 kilometres. The first thirty three kms are boring due to the traffic snarls but from Margao the journey opens up, passing through just the two towns of Cuncolim and Canacona. After the latter town, it is greenery all over.

One has to enter gates guarded by the guards of the forest department as we now enter the protected wild life sanctuary of Cotigao. From here we proceed deeper and deeper into the lush Goan forests, barely populated by humans. Finally a green mountain, with coconut groves adoring its base is visible. A thick carpet of paddy fields adds the final touch to the place. A distant waterfall can also be seen if one visits the place in the monsoons.

After a refreshing black tea flavoured with lemon grass and some tribal cookies, we take a long walk in the village. We cross a narrow bridge across a stream gurgling with waters from the mountains. A pathway leads us to a temple complex of Malikarjun and Mahadev. While the Shiv Ling is revered in the Sanctum Santorum other stone icons including a Ganapati sculpture is worshipped inside the temple. A couple of wooden statues are also seen. A huge wooden column, intricately carved is also preserved in this temple. It formed part of the old temple and is the only architectural memento to have survived the ravages of time. The last Rane Revolt led by Jil Sawant took place in Kuskem in the year 1912. Jil Sawant was shot by the Portuguese soldiers when he hid in the Malikarjun temple.

The gunshots marks are still visible.
Another ancient temple of Paik Dev is located in the midst of the lush fields. A partly damaged stone sculpture of the deity is worshipped at the temple.

After a refreshing walk around the village, we head to the earthen floored courtyard of one of the tribal homes. We find an elderely woman busy at one of the tribal arts of weaving a mat out of palm fronds. The ribs of the frond are carefully removed and used to make strong and sturdy brooms. Both these items require lots of patience and practiced skill. The palm leaves are largely wasted in the coastal areas when such useful products can be churned out of them. Even the men don’t sit idle when home from field work. They bring out some cane and convert it into useful household products which are tough and durable

The village womenfolk now gather in the courtyard to demonstrate their cultural folksongs. Whenever they grind flour on the millstones, they geth together and make it as a community exercise. A few songs are sung to provide rhythm to the strenous physical work. It also removes the monytony of the work.

After that they gather and tell stories to their children and any one else who cares to listen. The stories they recite talk of kings and queens and village life.

All these activities work up a voracious appetite. The women break up and hurry into their kitchen to serve the food. It is prepared in earthen utensils and cooked using firewood.

That meal has to be settled and so a trek through the wild trees of the mountains works wonders. And if one happens to come here during the monsoons so much the better as a waterfall cascading down a high rock is a treat to the eyes. For the brave hearted, heading beneath the cascade acan provide an experience of a life time!

Contact: Fr Freddy +919822156955